Best Mackerel New York 2009 - Café Glechik
Holy mackerel! Funny that, because of its newly acquired "sustainable" status, mackerel has become one of the most revered of fishes. We can remember when diners, encountering it in East Village Japanese restaurants for the first time, stuck out their tongues and hollered, "Yuck!" Now we're seeing the strongly flavored fish—which has oily flesh a color somewhere between brown and gray—tendered in all sorts of new contexts. We found it at Allen & Delancey slobbered with spiced yogurt and dill oil, and at Diner, grilled and offered with smoked paprika aioli, but our favorite evocation remains the one at Café Glechik, a Russian establishment where the fish is served pickled to within an inch of its sustainable life and presented simply with lemon and a few wisps of leaf lettuce.