The pleasure of a bowl of pho is principally in the broth, which should be aromatic and round, a brew made of beef bones, sweet charred ginger, star anise, and cloves. The pho at Pho Sure—a jokey name predicated on a mispronunciation of the soup, which is actually pronounced "fuh"—wins more than half the battle with its properly beefy, flavorful broth. The restaurant makes three versions of the soup, but the notable addition to the pho genre this year is the mo pho, a steaming bowl replete with beef tendon, tongue, and penis, which looks disconcertingly like the human variety, and is soft, chewy and mild.
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