The only thing pretentious about (le) poisson rouge is the name, actually. Parentheses, generally, do not rock. But in honor of this young Village spot's relentless and delightful eclecticism—raucous dance parties, elegant new-classical premieres, straight-ahead rock shows—let's re-adjust our definition of "rock." Undaunted by the weighted expectations given its address at the former Village Gate site, LPR is now offering the most well-rounded monthly slate of gigs in New York City, whether your thing is John Cage, Deerhunter, or "Crooked Disco." Seating 250 comfortably or a standing 700 cozily, the basement space's experience can change wildly along with the music, but it's never packed or sweltering, with a classy but non-garish décor and color scheme that inspired at least one Voice staffer to attempt to replicate the effect in her own apartment, to disastrous results. Besides, any place that once offered a plum monthly slot to They Might Be Giants is fine by us.