Toasted cheese remains the apex of comfort food, a meal or snack that all of us can enjoy, even vegetarians. In spite of many newfangled versions available at bistros, the diner version utilizing puffy white bread and American "cheese" continues to be wonderful at places like Le Bonbonniere, in spite of its being permanently consigned to junk-food hell. But this year, we go farther afield, for the Italian-American take on toasted cheese. Mozzarella in carrozza ("cheese in a carriage") is a battered and deep-fried sandwich, toasty and tasty, offered at Colandrea New Corner with a marinara dipping sauce. A version flooded with an anchovy-lemon sauce is called spedieni alla Romana.