Gilauti kebab hails from Lucknow, once known as the City of the Nawabs—Muslim noblemen of the Mughal Empire. The story goes that this particular kebab was invented for a toothless nawab who wanted some lamb, but could no longer chew. So a clever (or terrified) cook minced the meat so finely that it resembled a paste, mixed it with spices and papaya purée to further tenderize it, and steamed the patties over an open fire. Bhatti Indian Grill makes the city's best version. The small, pale pucks of meat go all silken in your mouth, like a marvelous, spiced pâté.