Rebecca Marx's Top 10: No. 4 New York 2010 - Cafe Katja
While sausages and goulash predominate at Café Katja, equally satisfying sustenance can be found in the tiny Austrian restaurant's herring salad. The cool flesh of the fish, which is pickled in-house, is chopped into fat pieces, swaddled in sour cream and dill, piled onto a bed of thinly sliced new potatoes, and crowned with a little clump of pickled purple onions. The whole thing is wonderfully fatty, in a rich-in-omega-3s kind of way, given nuance and clarity by the clean pop of the dill and onions. Served with a few wedges of thick, chewy rye toast, it's not only a salad but a paean to the humble beauty of a criminally underrated fish.