Rebecca Marx's Top 10: No. 7 New York 2010 - Prune
Gabrielle Hamilton's cold spicy eggplant at Prune illustrates one of her great strengths as a chef, which is to get the hell out of the way and let the ingredients do the talking. Here, the nightshade is engaged in deep conversation with nuggets of fried salt cod and a lone hard-boiled egg. Piled onto a long plank of flatbread, the eggplant speaks of cool, silken pulp; the fish answers with savory crunch; and the eggs just go along for the ride, happy to mediate between the two. The flatbread does its part, too, providing an able vehicle for getting it all into your mouth.