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Rebecca Marx's Top 10: No. 9 New York 2010 - Agnanti Meze

Agnanti Meze

Agnanti Meze

19-06 Ditmars Blvd.

Long Island City, NY 11105

718-545-4554

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Saganaki is another way of saying "baked or fried cheese," which is another way of saying "inherently delicious." At Astoria's Agnanti Meze, the saganaki are about the size of softballs and come three to a plate, surprisingly wrapped in phyllo dough, making them one of the city's most unapologetic gutbombs. But their brawniness belies a surprising delicacy: The dough falls away in crisp, buttery flakes, revealing an oozing core of wonderfully salty, bracingly fresh cheese. It tastes of happiness and weight gain, and is a testament to the enduring powers of hot, protein-stuffed carbohydrates.

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