Robert Sietsema's Best Fried Chicken - 2010
EN Japanese Brasserie
One of the owners was born in Japan, the other in America, and they've collaborated to produce the crispy fried chicken at EN Japanese Brasserie. Ever since Yanks occupied the vanquished empire—and introduced fried chicken and mayonnaise, among other American specialties—the Japanese have been studying how to make the best fried chicken. Employing a mild soy marinade, and not neglecting dark meat or sinew, the cooks at EN take amorphous small pieces of chicken, bread them lightly, and fry them in very fresh oil. My heart still skips a beat when the basket of chicken pieces appears in the hands of my waiter.