Robert Sietsema's Best Pizza - 2010
Ever since a fire nearly a year ago closed the premises—a shack, almost—amid Russian auto-body shops at the ass end of Coney Island, pizza fanatics worried that the pies would not be the same. They needn't have been concerned. The place looks nearly identical, and the margherita pizza at Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano still arrives puffy like an overweight, out-of-breath runner, slightly charred from the 900-degree coal-burning oven, and puddled with the finest mozzarella and canned tomatoes. Totonno's was founded in 1924 by Anthony Pero, who was one of the original pizzaioli at Lombardi's, where American pizza was invented, as the world looked on in awe.