While most Afghan restaurants specialize in kebabs, pilafs, and fried things, Balkh Shish Kabab House, under the N tracks in Astoria, exhibits a penchant for boiling and braising. Most unique is a braised jerky called laundy, but you can also get a pair of shing: magnificent boiled lamb shanks oozing marrow. Other don't-miss dishes include fist-sized aushack dumplings stuffed with meat and pumpkin-filled turnovers known as bolanee kadu—demonstrating a surprising vegetarian bent to the meat-heavy menu. 23-10 31st Street, Queens, 718-721-5020 (11105)