Don't you dare call them Barbadians! Former residents of this gentile Caribbean island prefer to be called Bajans, and Culpeppers is one of their most commodious outposts. The national dish of okra-flecked porridge called coo-coo plus steamed flying fish (sometimes they jump right into the boat!) is always available—unless it's not, when kingfish is substituted. Other delightful dishes include small sandwiches called cutters, pan-Caribbean rotis, and the usual nexus of stewed and sometimes curried chicken, goat, and lamb. 1082 Nostrand Avenue, Prospect Lefferts Gardens, Brooklyn, 718-940-4122 (11225)