If you want to eat big—we mean Andean big—grab one of the standard Ecuadorian platters at Sol de Quito. There's the montanero ("mountain climber"), featuring a thick hank of sausage, Pike's Peak of fried pork chunks, Lake Titicaca of beans, bigger plate of rice, and pair of cocktail franks, the last maybe intended to merely provoke a laugh from you. The Chinese fried rice called chaulafan, first brought to the continent by indentured cane cutters from China in the 1920s, is another "don't-miss" on the menu. 160 Irving Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-417-4174 (11237)