Istria is currently part of Croatia, but it has also been part of Italy in the past, bouncing back and forth like an Adriatic beach ball. The best Istrian food in town is found at Rudar Soccer Club, a sports bar founded by immigrant Istrian miners with a soccer team. Troop through the bar, where old men play whist, to reach the downstairs dining room, prettily decorated with checked curtains. Sample the cevapcici (skinless lamb sausage), gnocchi (spelled ("njoki") with veal sauce, and braised baby squid, washed down with a wine from a list more sophisticated than you might have expected—and more expensive, too. 34-01 45th Street, Queens, 718-786-5833, rudarclubny.com (11103)