In Korean restaurants, curd is where it?s at, and a place with the beguiling name of Book Chang Dong (good name for a randy librarian?) specializes in it. Soft tofu stews are the things to get, filled with your choice of clams, oysters, oxtails, mushrooms, kimchi, and pork. Ask for it extra spicy and you'll be rewarded with a brick-red broth. Crack in a raw egg for extra richness. Banchan, traditional Korean side dishes, are spectacular and generous. Even a single diner who has ordered a stew that costs less than $10 gets an array that includes cabbage and cucumber kimchi, pickled sprouts, egg custard, candied anchovies, and two slabs of marinated tofu. 46-09 Kissena Boulevard, Queens, 718-961-2618