Much as it has helped transform coffee from brown beverage to eroticized fetish object, Blue Bottle has taken the snickerdoodle, one of the most prosaic members of the American cookie canon, and remade it into an obscure object of desire. It's a feat that's accomplished by swapping the cookie's customary cinnamon with saffron, a substitution that's such a natural fit with its butter and vanilla that you'll wonder why it wasn't there all along. 160 Berry Street, Brooklyn, 718-387-4160, bluebottlecoffee.net (11211)