The Nigerians were among the first neo-Africans to arrive here in the '80s, and some of them rode in on a crest of oil revenues, creating middle-class institutions soon after arrival in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. Founded recently and not far away, Buka ("Eating House") is the most elegant Nigerian eatery so far, a kind of African hipster hang that doesn't pull its punches food-wise when it comes to humongous land snails, fluffy fufus, palm-oiled fricassees, and stockfish—the dried, bone-in fish that gives African food much of its savor. 946 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, 347-763-0619, bukanewyork.com (11238)