You'll encounter many spicy mouthfuls at Harold Dieterle's modern Thai restaurant, Kin Shop, but one of the hottest—not to mention yummiest—dishes on the menu is the spicy duck laab appetizer. The Top Chef winner cooks ground duck leg and breast meat with chiles, lemongrass, and fish sauce, before tossing the whole shebang with chopped long beans and fresh basil, mint, and cilantro, sprinkling the bounty with toasted rice powder and pickled red onions. He then spoons it all into romaine lettuce leaf cups, which you eat with your hands. Each bite offers a quick flash of heat, followed by a cooling sensation and soft crunch. Make sure you have a big glass of water handy, then order a second round. 469 Sixth Avenue, 212-675-4295, kinshopnyc.com (10011)