The lowly legume gets an upgrade at Buvette, Jody Williams's West Village "gastroteque," or intimate, Francophilic, brick-walled small-plates joint. She minces black kale until fine, then cooks it along with lentils du Puy, adding a healthy dollop of cream for a soupçon of richness. The beans arrive at the table steaming hot and served in a miniature cast-iron crock so adorable you'll want to lick it clean and put it in your purse for keeps. Throw in an order of red wine-braised salsify with Roquefort, and you've got one of the best-tasting, cool-weather vegetarian dinners around. Peasant food never seemed so chic. 42 Grove Street, 212-255-3590, ilovebuvette.com (10014)