It's not easy to get to, but a perennial candidate for best Vietnamese in the city—every since Bronx's sainted World of Taste closed last year—is Pho Mac, located in a strip mall right off the Staten Island Expressway. The core of the menu is a brilliant pho in the Saigon style, with a light broth laced with sweet spices and your choice of a dozen combos of beef—including variety meats—and finer-than-usual rice noodles. Full Vietnamese menu available, and the upstairs dining room is tastefully decorated. 1407 Richmond Avenue, Staten Island, 718-982-9292 (10314)