For those who expect restaurants from Yemen to be holes-in-the-wall near or on Atlantic Avenue in downtown Brooklyn, Bab Al Yemen in Bay Ridge will be a pleasant surprise. The premises are modern and nicely decorated, and there's a special area for families of devout Muslims, who can pull the curtains on their booths and dine in privacy. (You non-Muslims can probably get some privacy, too, if you request the curtained booth seating.) The front room is like a local clubhouse, and the food—cooked in a big brick oven—is the most modern evocation of the cuisine in town. A collection of barbecued lamb parts called haneez is the best intro. 413 Bay Ridge Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-943-6961 (11220)