Best Foodie Adventures: Staten Island - 2012
Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern, Ralph's Famous Italian Ices
524 Port Richmond Ave.
Staten Island, NY 10302
When the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge opened its gates to Italian-American immigrants from Brooklyn, the Staten Island style of pizza was born. How to describe it? The crust is midway between a Neapolitan and a Sicilian pie in thickness, and it's browned but not blackened in a conventional oven, which is the case at Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern—Staten Island's most famous pizzeria. The toppings tend toward seafood, reminding you that Staten really is an island. But the pizza is not the only remarkable thing—this resolutely working-class institution is also a half-darkened neighborhood barroom favored by tug captains and crews since the middle of the past century. Don't miss the conch salad, and there are great Italian ices at the original Ralph's Famous Italian Ices, just across the street. Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern, 524 Port Richmond Avenue, Staten Island, 718-442-9401, deninos.com; Ralph's Famous Italian Ices, 501 Port Richmond Avenue, Staten Island, 718-273-3675 (10302)