Best French - 2013
Uninterrupted service and a favorable cost-benefit ratio are the unsung heroes of Parisian eating, and they find an adoring, all-day audience in the West Village at Buvette. Small-plate menus tend toward high prices with small rewards, but at Jody Williams's tiny wine-bar-cum-country-café, the tartinettes are fully loaded. Here, the frugal Francophile will find comfortably executed classics like coq au vin, eggplant and tomato tian, and an absolutely heavenly crock of brandade de morue—and nothing is more than $15. A generous slab of pâté with all the trimmings is a mere $8, and while the wine isn't quite cheaper than water, you should feel free to treat yourselves to a couple carafes of Muscadet with your anchovies on toast. Go ahead, ask for more bread; those last bites of salt cod aren't going to scrape up themselves.