Best Korean - 2013
Cho Dang Gol
This K-Town Korean joint built its decade-long reputation on tofu, and it serves a particularly silken version cut into slices or mixed into stews, where it sops up flavor from pork, vegetables, and spicy orange broth. That tofu is worth your attention, but so are Cho Dang Gol's more carnivorous offerings, including dishes like the spicy galbi jjim. Hunks of soft, jiggly shortrib—shot through with rich fat and braised until soft—swim in a sweet-savory broth spiked with angry-looking (but mostly mild) burgundy chiles. The stew is filled out with chewy rice cakes, slices of squash, and crowning thatch of egg that's been griddled like an omelet and cut into thin shreds. You'll want rice to mop up the remaining juices, and maybe a little makgeolli, a fruity and lightly effervescent Korean rice wine served in a bowl, to wash it all down.