Best Soup - 2013
In the years since he opened Danji, Hooni Kim has come to be something of an ambassador for modern Korean food in New York. Hanjan is the chef's sophomore effort, a smartly dressed izakaya-style restaurant serving fresh-killed chicken skewers and a ramen soup that is only served after 9 p.m. because the broth takes 12 hours to cook, as good ramen should. It arrives in a deep, double-handled cauldron, the pungent, rust-colored broth smacking of chile and the bones of chef Kim's enemies. Who knew fish, pork, and chicken could be so diabolical? We'll forgive them their sins for slices of pork this soft and noodles this springy.