village voice
RSS/Podcast feed for Village Voice News Status Ain't Hood
Eerie Misanthropic Wednesday
by Nina Lalli | email: foodblog@villagevoice.com
Our Man Sietsema: 'As Dry as a Great-Aunt's Kiss'
posted: 11:52 AM, August 15, 2007 by Nina Lalli

Our Man Sietsema is no sucker for food trends and postmodern trickery, but he is a fan of Top Chef. This week, he checks out Harold Dieterle's Perilla this week, and the verdict? He can, indeed, cook, but seems to have something against grains.

Here's an overview:

The menu reads well, with an emphasis on seafood and a penchant for cured pork products as flavorings, fruit in unexpected places, and grandiose Pacific Rim flourishes. Strangely, there are virtually no carbs anywhere, except on the bread plate—and those slices are doled out singly, as if there were a bread shortage, making me wonder if Dieterle doesn't worship at the altar of Dr. Atkins.

Sietsema particularly moons over the pork belly, the cuttlefish appetizer, the duck meatballs, the hanger steak, and the Thai-style red snapper.

Perilla

9 Jones Street

(212) 929-6868

Comments

Post a comment


Remember Me?




The Village Voice Guide To Atlantic City

» click here to see more...

The Village Voice Summer Guide 2008

» click here to see more...

The Village Voice Summer 2008 Education Supplement

» click here to see more...

The Village Voice Spring Arts Supplement

» click here to see more...