Daily Voice «

update notifications

email

subscribe
unsubscribe

Extended Cubano Voting!

Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:57 PM, February 15, 2008

EfV Headquarters were hit with some gnarly pipe-related structural damage yesterday, and we apologize for going missing as a result. We have decided to give you all a little more time to vote for New York's best cuban sandwich. Take the weekend to entertain Thomas Vicari's challenge and sample the Casa Havana version, or just drop us an email (foodblog@villagevoice.com) or comment below with your favorite.

The polls now close at midnight on Sunday!

more: PSA

comments: 0

Getting Out the Cubano Vote

Posted by Nina Lalli at 9:20 AM, February 13, 2008



Havana Chelsea's Cubano was widely adored, but it is no more.

Time is running out to exercise your right to vote in EfV's Cubano contest. The polls close on Thursday night, so drop us an email (foodblog@villagevoice.com) or comment below and tell us where you satisfy your Cuban sandwich cravings now that so many favorite spots have disappeared from our fair city. Results and analysis on Friday.

more: PSA

comments: 0

How to Make Coffee at Home, From an Expert

Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:27 PM, February 12, 2008

Ever since we met Dan Griffin, the manager/consultant/director of coffee at Williamsburg's new, super serious coffee-shop, El Beit, where I sampled their delicious coffee, my own morning mug has seemed lacking. So I got Mr. Griffin to give a few pointers, for us common folk who may not have access to the $11,000 machine he loves the most, the Clover.

From the master:

For making coffee at home several factors are key:

  • Always use fresh roasted coffee, between four to 14 days out of the roaster.

  • Don't buy beans at the grocery store, get em' from your local coffee shop, but only if the bags have roast dates.

  • Always use freshly ground coffee

  • Grind coffee with a burr grinder, not a whirly blade grinder.

  • Know the right grind size for your brewing method.

  • Experiment with dose (the amount of coffee used) to get your desired profile.

  • Use filtered water at just below a boil

  • Use simple brewers: French press, Chemex, Eva Solo, vac pot, Melitta filter. Electric brewers don't get the water hot enough and are inconsistent.
  • El Beit 158 Bedford Avenue

    Williamsburg

    more: PSA

    comments: 5

    The State of the Ball-Field Vendors, Plus a Ceviche Exclusive

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 11:31 AM, February 12, 2008

    It may be wicked cold out, but if the Red Hook "Ball-field" vendors are going to be in action this summer, the time has come for them to fight for it. Cesar Fuentes, Executive Director of the Food Vendors Committee of Red Hook Park, gave us a full update on the situation.

    In a nutshell, the Park's Department has issued a Request for Proposals, and meeting its guidelines would be expensive. As Fuentes put it, "It is more fitted for a corporation than a group of artisan food vendors." In addition, the proposals are due in just ten days. But if they can make it happen, the permit would be good for six years, and the operation may eventually be open full-time (all week, all year). There is competition for the permit, but at this point, it doesn't seem to be fierce. The vendors' greatest opponents remains the Parks Department and the Department of Health.

    The only detail about the next season that's official is the sad news that Victor Rojas, the ceviche man whose stand was usually the furthest west on Bay Street, has decided to bow out already because of financial concerns. We're keeping our fingers crossed that the effort doesn't disintegrate before February 22, when the proposal is due.

    Let's break it down, shall we?

    JANUARY 30:

    Fuentes meets with the vendors to discuss the newly-released Request for Proposals and decide whether to continue the fight for preservation and make a bid. They decide to go on.

    FEBRUARY 6:

    Fuentes and the vendors meet at Red Hook Park with Parks officials to go over the Request for Proposals and meet other potential bidders. At first it seems that Fuentes and his vendors are without competition, but later he learns there are two other groups interested in bidding who did not show up.

    THE SKINNY ON THE REQUEST FOR PROPOSALS:

    The Good:

  • The Permit is good for six years.

  • There is a chance the concessions will be open more than just weekends.

  • The Parks Department appears to have framed their vision with the Ball-field vendors in mind.—they are looking for an ethnic food market.

    The Bad:

  • The Request for Proposals is complicated and Fuentes fears it may require "a team of lawyers, accountants, architects and/or designers and professional writers" to complete.

  • There is a $2000 deposit just to apply.
  • There are just ten days to complete the proposals. They're due on the 22nd of this month, by 3pm, delivered by hand. "Any later than 3pm and we're goners!"
  • The Department of Health and Mental Hygiene has set very strict guidelines as well. Fuentes said "It basically asks for state of the art operation", meaning mobile food vending units, rather than simple tables, and of course vendors (and assistants) must be licensed.

    "The Ugly":
  • Fuentes says the vendors face investments of $15,000-$30,000 or more each in the mobile carts themselves. Obviously, many vendors are deeply concerned about being able to do this.
  • Some vendors have already decided not to go forward. Namely, Victor Rojas, mentioned above.

  • more: PSA

    comments: 4

    Valentine's Day is Only for Lovers at Prune

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 5:31 PM, February 11, 2008

    We love Gabrielle Hamilton's dueling Valentine's Menus—one for lovers and one for cynics. But this year, we're all united at Prune, with just one menu (after the jump).

    For the cynics, last year, the chef put forth some Pasta Puttanesca (whore sauce), some cold pork shoulder with tonnato sauce, bitter greens with a broken vinaigrette sauce, and for dessert: "coffee and cigarettes." The menu for Cathy-types was also half the price of the lover version, which was, as it is this year, $69. Bah-ha ha. (The cynics menu was also a much shorter price-fix affair).

    But don't think Hamilton has gone all soft and kinky on us. Just because you're in a couple doesn't mean you're not cynical, as you probably know. The muses for this menu might be more Amy Winehouse and Whatshisname than some cutesy couple you want to beat to death with a bouquet of roses. We've got calves brains, beef cheeks, tongue-and-octopus salad, veal heart, deviled crab, and more.

    Prune is booked for dinner on Thursday, but General Manager Julie Sproesser told us they reserve one table for walk-ins and there will be a wait-list at the door. Also, on nights like this, couples tend not to want to sit at the bar, so you might be able to snag a spot there.

    VALENTINE’S DAY MENU 2008

    Choice of:

    *Deviled Crab

    *Celery Hearts Victor

    *1/2 Shell Scallops with roe sac and ruby grapefruit

    *Scrambled Egg Pasta Daisies

    Choice of:

    *Garbure with poached duck liver

    *Calf’s Brains, Brown Butter

    *Braised Beef Cheeks

    *Pork Belly with Brown Sugar, Pickled Tomatoes, Aioli and Parsley Salad

    Choice of:

    *Tongue and Octopus Salad

    *Cockles and fresh pork sausages

    *Grilled Veal Heart, Salsa Verde

    Choice of:

    *Eclair Swans

    *Honeycomb

    *Dark Cocoa Cake with Truffle Center and Wafer Crumbs

    *Rose Petal Panna Cotta

    *Cinnamon-Sugar Churros with Hot Buttered Rum

    *Raw Goat’s Milk Cheese, Pinenut Butter, Dried Cherry Bread Toasts

    $69 per person

    Prune

    54 East 1st Street

    (212) 677-6221

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    How Long Can You Eat?

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:44 PM, February 11, 2008

    fishbaby3.jpg

    The kids over at 826NYC's drop-in tutoring program have started an awesome blog, "Fish Slaps a Baby", which focuses on issues like wrestling, penguins, rock n' roll, transformers, and, uhhh, wrestling. But it's also interactive. On the right side of the page are polls for readers to answer. There are currently six days left to answer one that asks: "How long can you eat?"

    more: PSA

    comments: 1

    Sixpoint Beer Menu at Jimmy's

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:38 PM, February 7, 2008

    If you are a fan of Sixpoint beers, as we are, you might want to reserve your Monday night for a special event at Jimmy's No. 43. A beer-intensive pre-Valentine's event will feature a menu inspired by/the Brooklyn beers. Several dishes use Sixpoint beers as a cooking ingredient.

    Full details after the jump.

    From Jimmy's blog:

    On Monday February 11, Jimmy's No.43 will be hosting a pre-Valentine event featuring several limited, seasonal beers from Sixpoint Craft Ales of Brooklyn. Chef Phillip Kirschen-Clark will offer a menu of specials inspired by or actually prepared with The Belgian Style Triple, Scotch Ale, Guerilla Porter, as well as 2 cask ales pared with winter ingredients from the Greenmarket.

    The Menu:

    Baby lettuces w/beer pickled cherry tomatoes, radish sprouts, and sheep's milk feta

    "Bengali Tiger" I.P.A. and cave aged cheddar soup

    Crab cakes with wheat beer aioli, frisee, and tarragon

    Strozzapretti pasta w/ boquerones, pickled cherry tomatoes, and drunken goat cheese

    Bio-dynamic barly "risotto" w/bosc pears and pecorino cheese

    Miso and beer broiled "kampachi" (baby hamachi fish) w/ flageolet, and baby turnips

    "Beer Mash" marinated pork belly ribs w/garlicy kale

    "The Slab" Benton's Tennesse country bacon with accoutrements

    "Diesel" stout braised lamb shanks, yukon gold and marjoram puree

    "Brownstone" braised oxtail w/heirloom carrots

    Barley wine and toffee bread pudding

    Triple apple crisp (fresh and hard cider, goldrush apples)

    Chimay cheese

    Epoisses cheese

    Monday, February 11

    Jimmy's No. 43

    43 East 7th Street

    (212) 982-3006

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Super Fat: Where to Watch the Returns While Eating Jambalaya

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:01 PM, February 5, 2008

    Get your beads ready, people—and your Obama pin or whatever. To celebrate Super Fat Tuesday, South 4th Bar and Cafe, in Williamsburg, is serving up home-made jambalaya, Abita beer, and the election returns on a projection screen. The best part might be that the jambalaya is free and the beers are $3. According to the dude on the phone, one of the proprietors makes a kick-ass jambalaya, and there's a great neighborhood vibe. The food will appear around 7PM, and we can't imagine that will last long.

    Super Fat Tuesday:
    South 4th Bar

    90 South 4th Street (at Berry)

    Williamsburg

    (718) 218-7478

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Rice Balls at TKettle, Still no Action at BBQ Chicken

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:55 PM, January 28, 2008

    BBQ Chicken, the Korean fried chicken chain, remains dark at the Saint Marks location. When we asked Andy Pan, who owns TKettle and has "partnered" with BBQ Chicken at this joint location, about it on Friday, all he could say was "It's killing me softly." Seriously, that's what he said. The space, which, you may recall, was formerly dirty, dirty Dojo, still hasn't gotten the OK from the building inspector to have Con Edison install the gas. The details of the plumbing problem are a mystery to us, but Pan assured us the place will open. We'll continue to check in and keep you posted...

    But the difficulties on the left side of the shop, which are clearly weighing on Pan, could be something of a blessing in disguise. The lack of chicken forced him to get a little creative and add food to the menu at TKettle, his bubble tea shop, which occupies the right side of the space. Of course, that's why we got the fantastic dumplings from the dumpling lady of Queens.

    Now Pan has added sweet, mochi-like rice balls to the menu, which we gladly sampled the other day. The balls are Japanese, and not the work of Sun Le, the aforementioned dumpling master. But they're delicious nonetheless. An order of five rice balls costs $3.25 and consists of a combination of warm black sesame- and peanut-filled balls, encased in a chewy rice dough. We liked them both, but the peanut was especially good—salty, crumbly, and sweet. TKettle is open till 1AM, and we can easily imagine stopping in for an after-dinner sugar rush.

    TKettle

    26 Saint Marks Place

    (212) 982-9782

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Wine Swap Tonight, Plus Free Snacks

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:43 PM, January 28, 2008

    If you are the kind of wine drinker who knows what she likes, but only when she tastes it, you might want to start frequenting the Lower East Side wine bar, Tre, on Monday nights. Owner/sommelier Guido Vennitucci has a clever deal, the wine swap. You bring in any European bottle you enjoy, and he trades it for a similarly-priced recommendation of his own. In addition, swappers get free appetizers.

    Tre

    173 Ludlow Street

    (212) 353-3353

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Fort Greene Co-Op Meeting Tonight

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:50 PM, January 23, 2008

    The Fort Greene Co-Op is on its way. Tonight, the organizers will hold the first brainstorming meeting. It's open to all those who want to discuss the vision for this poject, including the main questions, "Why do we need/want a co-op? What will it take to start? What support do we have now? What will the structure of the co-op be? What’s on our wish-list? How can other co-ops help us?"

    Wednesday, January 23, 7-8:30 p.m.
    The Lafayette Avenue Presbyterian Church, 85 South Oxford (btw Lafayette and Greene/Fulton.

    Stay tuned at the Fort Greene Co-Op Blog.

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    J&L Mall Closed, For Real This Time?

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:10 PM, January 23, 2008


    J&L Mall, January 19.

    Photo by Dave Cook, a reliable chowhound and author of Eating in Translation, a blog you should read.

    Back in July, Flushing's most delicious food court, the J&L Mall, closed briefly. EfV had a mental breakdown, and then to our great relief, it opened again. Now it seems the place is doomed again, and its not as simple as fixing the lights.

    According to some very dedicated Chowhounds, the block where J&L is located on Main Street is about to undergo a serious makeover. It seems that this, like many other sad stories, is a tale of new condo construction. We will be back with a full report, dear readers.

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Valentine's Day Doesn't Have to be For Losers

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:24 PM, January 22, 2008

    Personally, we have always found Valentine's Day to be incredibly uncool, especially for couples. It's far too embarrassing to go out to a special dinner on February 14, and you have to hide indoors. But Savoy, master of the special menu, has put together an oyster dinner, and, geniuses that they are, it takes place all week, so no one has to know you're in love. We will just have to excuse them for naming the event "An Evening of Aphrodisiacs," and for quoting What the World Needs Now is Love, which is nearly inexcusable. Full details, including the oyster taste-off, below.

    An Evening of Aphrodisiacs

    Monday, February 11, 2008

    Oyster Dinner with Jon Rowley Starts Valentine’s Week

    “What the world needs now is love, sweet love. It’s the only thing that there’s just too little of.”

    On Monday, February 11, 2008, we’re hosting an oyster taste-off of both east and west coast varieties, paired with crisp white wines to swirl and slurp. Jon Rowley will lead a comparative tasting and guests will determine the most inspiring duo. Then, the evening continues with a three course dinner to celebrate the magic of the perfect pair, oysters and white wine. The rest of the week we will feature the star couple from the tasting, and of course a romantic four course prix fixe dinner on Valentine’s Day, February 14.

    Rowley was recently named on Saveur Magazine’s “100” list for tastemakers and food world shakers of 2008. Based in Seattle, his passion for the past three decades has been sourcing the best seafood and spreading the word about new products, such as Olympia oysters and Copper River salmon. His fish tales are sure to make for a fun and informative meal.

    Menu

    The Oyster Bed Tasting

    eight varieties and three paired wines

    Salsify and Oyster Mushroom Salad

    Oyster Chowder

    Chocolate and Fig Torte

    Oyster Dinner with Jon Rowley, February 11

    $95 per person plus tax and gratuity

    Seating is communal and reserved on a pre-paid basis.

    Tasting begins at 6:30 PM, Dinner to follow.

    70 Prince Street at Crosby, Soho

    For reservations please call Savoy: (212) 219-8570


    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Free Cookies this Sunday

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 6:42 PM, January 18, 2008

    Scott Alexander, an eccentric young man who sometimes makes cookies and gives them away for free, will be doing just that this Sunday, January 20. This batch will be of the chocolate chip variety (recipes available on his website), and Alexander, who you may have met when he opened the door for you at Del Posto, is also a self-proclaimed "underappreciated rockstar," so along with the cookies there will be music.

    Free Cookies

    Sunday, January 20

    7:30PM

    94 Avenue A (at 6th Street)

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    South Slope Soup Man is Officially Out

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:08 PM, January 18, 2008

    EfV was hit with a traumatizing stomach flu this week, but we're back and almost normal. A boiled potato never tasted so good, friends. Anyway, a source in South Slope tells us the 4th Avenue soup man (at Flowers & Coffee) has, as we warned back in August, left the premises. A condo will be towering in that same spot soon. When we spoke to him last summer, he was determined to relocate nearby. We'll be on the lookout.

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    America's Best Mint Julep

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:05 PM, January 14, 2008

    On our visit to New Orleans last week, we had to stop by the Library Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton, where Chris McMillian, one of the founders of the Museum of the American Cocktail, is famous for his perfect juleps. As he muddles the mint and crushes the ice with a giant wooden mallet, he recites a 19th century ode to the drink, in perfect timing.

    But his days at the bar are numbered. The Library Lounge is being revamped as a cigar lounge, and while McMillian, who has been at the Ritz for seven years, will remain at the hotel, in the main bar, we wonder whether if the shift will work. This is just "drinkie" speculation, but is there a chance he could be bringing the bourbon to a new town in the not-so-distant future? After all, cities like our own have become obsessed with mixology and the mastery of classic cocktails.

    comments: 1

    A New Diner Journal Joins the Blogosphere

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:22 PM, January 2, 2008

    Not to be confused with the Times' tag-team food blog, Diner's Journal, the folks behind Marlow and Sons, Diner, etc., have launched a bloggy arm of their quarterly magazine called Diner Journal. In their own words:

    We are now launching our blog http://thedinerjournal.com. This will be place for us to really dialogue with our staff and our community. We are really excited to be writing, thinking, and creating around these restaurants. On the blog you will find information on our wine lists, our struggles with sustainability, what we are reading as well as events we support and participate in. It will be a place for us all to ruminate on the process we are going through, committing to revolutionizing the way we bring you food.


    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    More Ways to Waste Time on the Internets!

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:10 PM, December 21, 2007

    We have just discovered yet another outlet for our self-important restaurant critiques. As if this blog wasn't enough. We have already found out our "Food IQ" on Facebook, and of course you can virtually bake a pie for your friend, or make a meatpie out of her(?), figure out what fast food chain you would be, what type of bagel you are, tell you friends about your diet (boo!), share "food porn"... and way too much more.

    But there are also Menu Pages-esque applications that let you keep your friends up to date with where you've been eating and why the sauce was too rich or the service was excellent. This, like sharing movie recommendations or music picks, could actually be useful, since you know where the advice is coming from, and whether you tend to agree with the reviewer (unlike many sites, which are frequented by anonymous wingnuts). Plus you never have to talk to anyone in person again. Maybe you can just bring your blackberry to dinner.

    more: PSA

    comments: 1

    Forget the Subway, You can Get Laid at the Park Slope Food Co-Op

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:37 PM, December 20, 2007

    If you're into desperate, bike-riding-type guys who love hairy legs, wild boar sausage, and recycling, you might want to join up at the Food Co-Op in Park Slope. From Craigslist's Missed Connections:

    To the girls at the Park Slop Food Coop - m4w

    When I go to the Coop, not only am I shopping for cheese, produce, good beer, hummos, wild boar sausage. I am also shopping for wives.

    Why, dammit, why, are there 7,008,379,984,332 amazing, beautiful, sexy, outrageously irresistable girls at the coop? Why? It's fucked up!

    If there are any Coop girls out there who dream about pulling some poor little lonely coop guy into the bathroom and making out, you should respond. No, it doesn't mean that I am going to suggest that we do that. It's just that, sometimes I wonder if the girls there feel the same way as I do.

    Whatever, I'm drunk. I love you, coop girls.

    A special shout-out to:

    Hiroko

    Nora

    Kira ...shit I don't even know most of their names.

    Well I guess I'll just eat my fancy mustard all alone. A whole bottle of it. With my fingers.

    * Location: Caramba!!!!

    more: PSA

    comments: 1

    Feast of the Seven Fishes: A Recipe from Gusto, and a Mom

    Posted by Nina Lalli at 12:51 PM, December 18, 2007

    Polipetti%20alla%20Griglia%20lo.jpg

    Grilled baby octopus with celery and olives, from Gusto's "La Vigilia" menu

    As Christmas Eve approaches, it's difficult for this Italian peasant blogger to focus on her work. I've got fish on the brain, people. So I thought I'd share some sea-based recipes with you this week, whether you are cooking up a La Vigilia feast or not. First, my mom's baccala salad recipe, which I posted last year, is a real crowd pleaser, and it's nearly impossible to mess up.

    And next, a zuppa di pesce recipe from Gusto's special menu (printed in full below):

    Zuppa di Pesce

    Serves 4

    4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

    1 fennel bulb, finely chopped

    1 rib celery, finely chopped

    4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

    1 medium red onion, finely chopped

    1 tbsp crushed red pepper flakes

    2 cups basic tomato sauce (recipe follows)

    2 cups dry white wine

    1 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped

    1 small piece of wild striped bass

    8 giant head-on prawns

    8 mussels, scrubbed, bearded, and rinsed

    8 manila clams

    ½ pound calamari

    ½ cup Italian parsley, finely chopped

    In a large casserole pot, heat the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the fennel, celery, garlic, onion and pepper flakes and cook until translucent, about 6 to 8 minutes.

    Add the tomato sauce, wine and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add the fish and shellfish, cover and return to a boil. Uncover and reduce the heat to a simmer until the shellfish have opened, 5 to 6 minutes.

    Divide the seafood between the 4 bowls, then divide the broth, and sprinkle each bowl with parsley. Serve immediately.

    Basic Tomato Sauce

    2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

    ½ Spanish onion, chopped in ¼ inch dice

    2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

    1 ½ tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves or ½ tbsp dried

    ¼ medium carrot, finely shredded

    1 (28 ounce) can peeled whole tomatoes, crushed by hand and juices reserved
    salt, to taste

    In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the thyme and carrot and cook 5 minutes more, until the carrot is quite soft. Add the tomatoes and juice then bring to a boil, stirring often. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes until as thick as hot cereal. Season with salt to taste.

    “LA VIGILIA” at Gusto

    December 24, 2007

    Polipetti alla Griglia

    Grilled baby octopus with celery and olives

    Zuppa di Pesce

    Spicy shellfish soup

    Bucatini con le Sarde

    Hollow spaghetti with sardines, pinenuts and raisins

    Tonno alla Livornese

    Pan seared tuna with tomato, cippolini onions and black olives

    Semifreddo al Arance e Limone

    Frozen orange and lemon mousse

    $75

    Wine pairings $40

    more: PSA

    comments: 0

    Three best things to do in New York on
    Saturday, August 30