Our Man Sietsema: 'A Curry Rub Like Melt-in-Your-Mouth Sand'

This week, Our Man visited Soto, where sushi chef Sotohiro Kosugi has brought his knack for raw fish innovations to Sixth Avenue. Sietsema was familiar with the Soto of Hot-lanta, where he dined a few years ago.

Soto's specialty, in keeping with many sushi masters before, is in presentation, freshness, and invention.

Typical of his stunning creativity is chayutoro tuna tartare ($20), a puck of pureed fatty tuna topped with a thin layer of whipped Japanese guacamole. Landscaping this creamy meadow is an artful arrangement of green chives, dried ginger shreds, and black caviar. Every bite is divine. Other inventions include a carpaccio of red-rimmed Japanese stripe jack bathed in truffle-ginger soy sauce. Stacked in layers like a very organized haystack, a horse mackerel tataki ($15) sprouts shiso blossoms like tiny purple gladiolas. Everywhere on the menu, visual pleasure precedes gustatory excitement.

But the regular old sushi, which we think is a crucial test, also gets high marks. In addition, the menu cites the origin of each fish, which we think is quite fascinating, in an age where our tuna is flown all over the world, and diners tend to know nothing of its voyage.

Soto 357 Sixth Avenue (212) 414-3088

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