Our Man Sietsema: 'As Dry as a Great-Aunt's Kiss'

Our Man Sietsema is no sucker for food trends and postmodern trickery, but he is a fan of Top Chef. This week, he checks out Harold Dieterle's Perilla this week, and the verdict? He can, indeed, cook, but seems to have something against grains.

Here's an overview:

The menu reads well, with an emphasis on seafood and a penchant for cured pork products as flavorings, fruit in unexpected places, and grandiose Pacific Rim flourishes. Strangely, there are virtually no carbs anywhere, except on the bread plate預nd those slices are doled out singly, as if there were a bread shortage, making me wonder if Dieterle doesn't worship at the altar of Dr. Atkins.

Sietsema particularly moons over the pork belly, the cuttlefish appetizer, the duck meatballs, the hanger steak, and the Thai-style red snapper.

Perilla 9 Jones Street (212) 929-6868

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