Our Man Sietsema: 'Fried Yuca Puts French Fries to Shame'

Not long ago, I did a little pupusa sampling in Washington Heights, but this week, Sietsema goes much further at El Salvadoreno, reporting on Salvadoran enchiladas, tamals, quesadillas, and some dishes from elsewhere in Central America and Mexico. And that's all in the appetizer section.

Of course, the pupusas still play a starring roll:

Using the plastic knife, slit a pupusa, spread it open like an empty wallet, and spoon in the curtido. Pupusas ($1.50 to $2 each) are hand-patted pancakes stuffed with your choice of cheese, ground pork, cheese and ground pork, shrimp and cheese, or cheese and loroco, the latter a pickled herbal cousin of oregano. I don't much like the shrimp version (lumpy and bland), but the rest are excellent, delivering a comforting creaminess that functions nicely with the crunchy whiplash of curtido.

We still have a few weeks left at the Red Hook Ball Fields, but aren't you glad to know there are cheesy pillows of goodness, and so much more, uptown too?

El Salvadoreno 1229 St. Nicholas Avenue 212-927-3898


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