Our Man Sietsema: 'It was fragrant with the odor of pasturage'

Sietsema, a barbecue connoisseur, checked out Williamsburg's Fette Sau this week, and despite the fact that he had to travel with his own Wonder bread, he gave the place high marks for traditional Texas 'cue with a few twists, like flank steak and pork belly. Also traditional is the discrepancy between the quality of the meat and the sides, but Our Man forgives.

The meat—beef, pork, and lamb; no chicken or fish—has been rubbed with a rudimentary spice mixture, and, thankfully, hasn't been pre-swabbed with sauce. There's not a drop of liquid smoke on the premises. The sauces on the side are limited to ketchup, vinegar (for the pulled Carolina-style pork), and a dark, gritty barbecue sauce, probably best diluted with one of the other two. The sides are comically limited to mediocre German potato salad (which perversely lacks bacon), half-sour pickles, and meat-laced beans that my friend John said were some of the best he'd ever tasted.

Fette Sau 354 Metropolitan Avenue Williamsburg (718) 963-3404

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