Our Man Sietsema: 'No annoying squirts of colorful sauce'

Our Man reports on Jean-Georges' Perry Street this week. Sietsema announces that he has never been a fan of the Vongerichten empire, but Perry Street, with its $24 lunch special, seems to be the exception:

"I disliked Vong, with its pallid upscale Thai, and hated Spice Market, which treats its guests like cattle and produces Asian fusion of wildly uneven quality. As for his flagship Jean-Georges: Who can afford it?"

The Perry Street standouts include poached chicken ("Normally, I would run in the opposite direction of anything called poached chicken"), homemade mozzarella, porgy sashimi, and crispy poached eggs:

"These amorphous blobs came crumbed and fried, leaving them gooey inside and well browned on the exterior. A teaspoon of caviar had been heaped on each. In a vain attempt to stanch the flow of yellow yolk, two cubes of fried brioche stood like twin sentries before the land of saturated fat."

Perry Street 176 Perry Street (212) 352-1900

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