Our Man Sietsema: 'Oh, Blessed Fusion!'

Our Man has recently spent some time at a Bay Ridge stalwart, a Greek taverna called Plaka that, unlike its Astorian cousins, does not focus on grilled fish, but rather, where Sietsema goes for moussaka and pork shish-kabobs, as well as skordalia. But don't get roped into the lamb chops.

In the end, the best thing he ate wasn't animal or vegetable, but good old dairy. It seems like it was almost mind-altering:

Our favorite app was probably saganaki ($10.50), a big plank of sheep's-milk kasseri cheese deposited in a crock and set aflame with brandy. Eagerly we dipped our pitas in the melty white mass, which oozed oil that provided further lubrication. And as we ate it, the cheese reminded us of a low-lying nimbostratus cloud, auguring rain.

Plaka Taverna 406 86th Street Bay Ridge (718) 680-3056

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