Our Man Sietsema: 'The grilled cactus paddle was totally dope'

Let's start with the very end of Sietsema's newest review:

"Note to Jeffrey Chodorow: Wouldn't it be a great idea to staff a restaurant kitchen entirely with nuns?"

What inspired this in Our Man? A little place in Williamsburg known as Kiosco Piaxtla, named for a remote Southern Pueblan town. It sounds like a delicious town, but I'm a little torn about a phenomenon Sietsema describes in Williamsburg:

"The dining scene on this stretch of Graham—one of Brooklyn's great discount-shopping streets—was once dominated by Puerto Rican lunch counters, but these institutions are gradually being replaced by Mexican taquerias. Nowadays, even the pizza parlors sell tacos."

I love my tacos, don't get me wrong, but the further disappearance of Puerto Rican lunch counters is bad news. Can't we get rid of some Chodorow restaurants instead?

Anyway, Sietsema's descriptions of pipian verde de pollo, barbacoa, pork ribs in a tomatillo-laced green mole, pancita de res (beef tripe soup), posole, enchiladas with mole poblano, sopas, huaraches, chalupas, and picaditas help take my mind off the lunch counter mourning. Thanks Sietsema.

Kiosco Piaxtla 258 Graham Avenue (718) 388-2957

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