Our Man Sietsema: 'This Italian-American favorite never tasted better'

Major Cork Screw: One bottle costs $15 in the shop next door, but a glass is priced at $11!

Sietsema has mixed feelings about Centovini, the Moss-designed wine bar on West Houston. On the one hand, the food is conceived and prepared with more love than your standard wine bar, but on the other hand, Centovini doesn't rise above the price-gauging tendencies of its peers. With a little compare and contrast, Our Man exposes the markups, and the truth hurts. Order the stuffed cavatelli, but bring your own flask?

Centovini 25 West Houston Street (212) 219-2113

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