Counter Culture

  • Chicken Rehab

    Chinese American chef Anita Lo became a Downtown luminary four years ago at Mirezi, a stunning, short-lived Village restaurant featuring... More >>

  • Kasbah Rocks

    If you only ordered zaalouk ($3.50), you'd be disappointed. Despite a promising undertaste of cumin, this soggy eggplant-and-tomato puree seems... More >>

  • Suicide Watch

    With sharp exclamations of delight, a table of Japanese diners dip their long tongs in a bubbling "pre-appetizer" of cheese fondue. Perhaps they... More >>

  • Cheating Death

    I'm fond of consoling bereaved friends upon the death of a favorite restaurant by pontificating, "Somewhere, an even better place has opened up."... More >>

  • Pole Attacks

    Greenpoint's northeastern frontier sustains a half-dozen Polish restaurants so far from the subway that they're known only to residents of this... More >>

  • Fish and Chips

    Order a whole fish on a weekday afternoon and Mostafa Khalil—walled behind boxes of pastries—leaves his cash-register pulpit and... More >>

  • Chile Pilgrim

    Oaxacan is the Holy Grail of Mexican food. Based on seven legendary moles in shades of red, green, yellow, and black, the cuisine deftly wields... More >>

  • No Paella

    The hunk of suckling pig arrives with the skin glistening and extravagantly inflated like an Indian poori. Burnished the color of Don Quixote's... More >>

  • Very Berberé

    Two days later my fingers still smelled. The culprit was tsebhe beghie ($18), deliciously bathing lamb cubes in the Ethiopian spice mixture... More >>

  • Little Sheba

    Though the smeary pink interior of 145 Luncheonette is accented with fake brick like a '60s diner, a squint through the window reveals an Arabic... More >>

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