Counter Culture

Sail Away
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Mar 28 2000

Until recently, Gotham's Thai food lovers had a difficult choice: hang their heads in shame or move to Los Angeles. Then Sripraphai appeared, and... More >>
Palermo Spleen
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Mar 14 2000

"Focacceria" sounds like a trendy Tuscan bakery, but in parts of Brooklyn it denotes an old-fashioned Sicilian eatery specializing in snacks that... More >>
Lower East Side Newcomer Earns Its B
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Feb 29 2000

Guernica has some witty notions. Instead of occupying indentations in a round metal tray, escargots ($9) arrive in a basket whittled from a... More >>
God’s Fry-O-Lator
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Feb 15 2000

If you've ever wondered what it feels like to be a sardine, drop by the corner of Madison Avenue and 125th Street on a sunny winter afternoon.... More >>
Scary Black Egg
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Feb 1 2000

Digging into pasembur ($6.95) is like excavating an Egyptian pyramid. Shrimp-embedded flatbreads shingle the tomb, while goobers lurk beneath... More >>
Gravy, Gravy, Gravy
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Jan 18 2000

A panoramic window peers into the tandoori chamber, offering a cinematic view of an elderly chef, her head swaddled in white linen, method-ically... More >>
The Eggman Cometh
By Robert Sietsema Tuesday, Jan 4 2000

Restaurants that mimic Parisian bistros have become so commonplace downtown that we hardly notice when a new one pops up. I've always found... More >>
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