Counter Culture

  • True Grits

    Sandwiched tightly between Indian restaurants just off 6th Street, La Madrastra is difficult to spot. Though the name means "stepmother" in... More >>

  • Bosnian Burgers

    Mirza Huskic could be James Beard's twin brother. Framed in the carry-out window of Bosna-Express, he surveys his domain aproned and smiling: a... More >>

  • Trading Taters

    Who invented freeze-drying? Some scientist at Kraft or General Foods, you think? Wrong! This seemingly high-tech endeavor was perfected millennia... More >>

  • Big Cheese

    The Swinging '60s were right about one thing—fondue rocks. Originating in Switzerland as a method of recycling cheese rinds and stale bread... More >>

  • Secret Society

    Obscurely berthed in the Bronx's Belmont section, Roberto's boasts a facade that looks like a ship's prow, with a row of eager customers... More >>

  • Scarlet Fingers

    Ethiopian immigrants must be among the nation's canniest restaurateurs. Though numbering only 33,000 nationwide, they've assembled an impressive... More >>

  • Crunchy Enchiladas

    By early evening, the stretch of Jamaica Avenue that bisects Richmond Hill has the eerie look of a deserted movie set. The overhead J train... More >>

  • Orbiting Yum

    You've never tasted yum this good before. Planted on a bed of unblemished Boston lettuce, the other ingredients of this amazing salad (yum hnam... More >>

  • Pass the Mashed

    It's only cold mashed potatoes laced with olive oil, lemon, and tons of raw garlic, but scordalia ($4) is one of humanity's greatest inventions.... More >>

  • Night in Tunisia

    Swagged from the ceiling, 34 Berber lamps fling tentacles of light. Their collective candlepower is insufficient for the hapless diner to detect... More >>

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