Counter Culture

  • The Epistle to Jonathan

    Celeste is just what the Upper West Side was waiting for—a real East Village-style trattoria serving modern Italian food at reasonable... More >>

  • Another Little Italy

    The Bronx is full of surprises. Glued to my Hagstrom map, driving south of Pelham Parkway in search of a rumored Jamaican vegan joint, I stumbled... More >>

  • Ordeal by Beef

    The seven-course beef dinner known as bo bay mon is the holy grail of Vietnamese cuisine. Some say it was invented by a Frenchman in Saigon a... More >>

  • Flying Snails

    Nigerian cuisine is the fastest-growing segment of the city's African restaurant industry. Four places have recently opened—one in Queens,... More >>

  • Irish Stew

    Gottlieb's interior is a museum of smudgy '50s-style Formica, green Naugahyde, and the kind of high counters that made you feel smaller as a kid.... More >>

  • Codless

    The perennial favorite of the dining-and-dancing crowd, Nell's ruled its lonely stretch of West 14th Street for over 15 years. Now stiff... More >>

  • A Short History of Fruitcake

    Blame the fruitcake plague on the cheap sugar that arrived in Europe from the colonies in the 16th century. Some goon discovered that fruit... More >>

  • Kitchenless

    Roasting meat and fish in a wood-burning oven is de rigueur in restaurants like Five Points, Mercer Kitchen, and the Harrison, lending a smoky... More >>

  • Busting Out

    How come Manhattan's Chinatown has never had a Taiwanese restaurant? Hong Kong, Malaysian, Shanghai, and Fuzhou cuisines have become a formidable... More >>

  • Vapo-Rub Lamb

    If certain restaurant locations are cursed, then the opposite must also be true: Some places are blessed. A case in point is the upstairs at 113... More >>

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