Counter Culture

  • Circular Logic

    Burek Central used to be Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where a half-dozen Serbian bars served up the fabulous flaky pies called bureks, as big and round... More >>

  • Scar Face

    We'd forgotten all about "liquor ball" ($2.95) when it belatedly arrived, looking like a bowl of egg drop soup. The first sip was pleasantly... More >>

  • Favoring Curry

    When curry conquered the world, it traveled by devious routes. By the late 19th century it had invaded Japan—arriving from England, not... More >>

  • Aw, Shucks

    Drive to the mouth of Sheepshead Bay, take a quick left, then a quick right, and find yourself on Harkness Avenue, a stubby street that dead-ends... More >>

  • Doner Party

    Second-floor spaces are considered slow death by restaurateurs, who prefer a street-level place with plenty of windows. Inspired by an Istanbul... More >>

  • Drugstore Dining

    Eschewing the obvious Park Slope, Cobble Hill, or Fort Greene locations, Locanda Vini & Olii hopscotched across the Brooklyn map to an abandoned... More >>

  • Pig Out!

    Six stately women resplendent in pearls and neatly pressed blouses sat at midday in the mirrored dining room. Somewhat incongruously, they were... More >>

  • Formica Sea

    Years ago, Sheepshead Bay was defined by its garish row of working-class clam bars. One by one they went down for the count, as urban renewal... More >>

  • Point Counter Point

    The path from the parking lot to the new Flushing Mall passes a political convention's worth of flapping banners and pennants, and on a recent... More >>

  • Muddy Waters

    The municipal beach at Lago di Chiusi has seen better days. A crumbling concrete jetty worthy of Robert Smithson curves into the weed-choked... More >>

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