Counter Culture

  • Schnitzel Watch

    New Yorkers have been surprised over the past few years by a spate of Viennese restaurants of a sort never seen in the city before. Leading the... More >>

  • Highway Food

    Now that Tuscan-inspired food is ubiquitous, the dining populace is turning elsewhere for Italian thrills. In the last few years, there's been a... More >>

  • Porky's

    The rhythmic chop-chop-chop of the machete resounds. Close your eyes and you might be standing in a sugarcane field. Hiding behind a bouquet of... More >>

  • Paint It Black

    Nobody doesn't like llapingachos. I fell in love with them last year in Quito, where they're the quintessential worker's lunch. Fried to... More >>

  • Bowne, Bownie, Bownier

    It's no longer necessary to drag your ass to Staten Island to get great Sri Lankan food. Bownie Restaurant is the latest addition to 45th... More >>

  • Yeah Yeah Yeahs

    Chrysanthemum fish ($12.95) is Shanghai cooking's technical tour de force even though it will never become your favorite Chinese dish. Sea bass... More >>

  • The Birds

    The quest for the city's best jerk chicken moves forward. Even though Baychester's Jerk Center, Flatbush's Danny and Pepper, and Edenwald's... More >>

  • Eat Your Peas

    Marshaled on the counter, the pastries possess poetic names. Kaab ghozal ("gazelle horns") are crescent cookies crammed with rose-scented... More >>

  • Goth Night

    With all the Sikh restaurants, Ecuadorian lunch counters, and Indo-Caribbean vegetable stands beckoning from Richmond Hill, I find myself... More >>

  • Hot Heroes

    A friend once told me that, decades ago, what beach-bound Brooklynites craved was not Coney Island franks or Brighton Beach knishes, but hot... More >>

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