Counter Culture

  • Dumpling Magic

    Four years ago Chinatown's first dumpling stall appeared on Allen Street. At Fried Dumpling, a dollar got you five pork-and-chive pot stickers,... More >>

  • Sideswiped

    The candlelit front room looks onto a shadowy street with nothing to see but a straggling pedestrian or two. Turning a sharp corner into the back... More >>

  • Ciao, Mario

    I awakened from an afternoon doze to find Mario Batali doing a commercial for OTB. Jolly and florid of face, he slouched on a bar stool waving a... More >>

  • Getting Wood

    As a guy obsessed with barbecue, whose vacations trace barbecue trails through sacred locales like Lexington, North Carolina; Memphis, Tennessee;... More >>

  • Water Sports

    Cross Bay Boulevard is surely one of New York's most spectacular thoroughfares, sweeping over hummocks and open stretches of egret-dotted Jamaica... More >>

  • Frog. Period.

    The room isn't all that different from your neighborhood Japanese, done in comforting shades of brown made a tad more elegant by a pair of... More >>

  • Times Square Refusenik

    Decades ago, mercantile Manhattan was littered with Cuban luncheonettes that operated only during the day and served a constituency of... More >>

  • Roman Road

    One of my fondest memories of Italy is lounging on a sunny hillside terrace at La Bellaria, an agriturismo (farm serving meals) south of Piacenza... More >>

  • Got Chiles?

    You've got to admire a place that serves an ear of sweet corn the way it comes off the cart in Mexico: steamed into oblivion, gobbed with mayo,... More >>

  • Bachelor Party

    Our dapper waiter breezes in with a sand-colored jug, doffs the makeshift foil top, tips it over, and cascades a bony brown liquid into the bowl.... More >>

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