Counter Culture

  • Meatball Hero Worship

    Ask somebody on the street, "Who invented the hero?" and chances are the respondent will credit Italian American immigrants, who modified a... More >>

  • Face-Lift for an Old-Timer

    "It's better than french fries," my date exclaimed, launching another crisp shoestring of fried zucchini mouthward. Indeed, the immense haystack... More >>

  • Lung Heat

    Scott extracted four from the pot, lined them up on the edge of the plate, then popped them into his mouth one after another. Soon a flush spread... More >>

  • My Faraona

    Snag one of the tables on the outdoor balcony and find yourself hanging above a fairy-tale landscape that stretches downward through vast fields... More >>

  • No Mooncakes

    Of all the recent attempts to reinvent the American diner, none has more appeal than Mooncake Foods. Obscurely located near the Holland Tunnel on... More >>

  • Clusters

    Like an epidemiologist studying the distribution of diseases, I plot clusters of great restaurants on a big map. Long ago I noticed that many of... More >>

  • Soused

    Though the culinary wonderland of Nostrand Avenue is dominated by Trinidadian, Guyanese, and Jamaican joints, other nations make cameo... More >>

  • Up on the Bayou

    Three years ago, when Bayou debuted in Harlem, I'd just returned from a New Orleans binge and was in no mood to tolerate mediocrity. After... More >>

  • Like Gangbusters

    It's right to be skeptical of the new places opening in Park Slope's lower altitudes, particularly around Fifth Avenue. Many are overpriced and... More >>

  • Noodle Envy

    When a Los Angeles colleague wrote about visiting 40 Thai restaurants in a single week, all in one section of the city, I was frankly jealous. We... More >>

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