Counter Culture

  • Downloading Doner

    It's a rare restaurant that undergoes such a trial and passes with flying colors. On a recent Sunday afternoon, 10 of us charged into... More >>

  • Supersize Me

    Is it my imagination, or have restaurants been getting bigger and bigger lately? Increasingly, many joints seat 100, 200, or even more. No chef... More >>

  • Thanks, Cattle

    Weekend afternoons—or weekdays after a van disgorges a gang of exhausted day laborers in front of the temp employment agencies down the... More >>

  • Shibam!

    Hadramawt is a narrow wadi—or valley—that snakes its way through the craggy mountains of Yemen near the Empty Quarter desert. Snuggling... More >>

  • Daruma Bums

    While other cuisines are licensed to innovate freely, Japanese often remains hidebound. Ninety-eight percent of Japanese restaurants have menus... More >>

  • Letter From Chicago

    Hey Jonathan: A zillion thanks for your recommendation! We New Yorkers like to think of ourselves as one jump ahead of everybody,... More >>

  • Beef Unbound

    The Vietnamese admiration for beef is boundless. It's partly a legacy of French colonialism, as you'll discover when the giggling waitress wheels... More >>

  • Death and Sausages

    Long ago the East Village was known as Kleindeutschland, or "Little Germany." Peer at the terra-cotta lintel over the door of Second Avenue's... More >>

  • Yakety-Yak

    Among our handful of restaurants from the ceiling of the world, Tibetan Yak was considered the most authentic. The doughy steamed bread called... More >>

  • Shipshape

    Like an ocean liner, the two-story restaurant thrusts its prow into Seventh Avenue's lapping waves of traffic. Indeed, the downstairs dining room... More >>

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