Counter Culture

  • Kill the Sauce

    Not to be confused with the sainted Roberto's up in the Bronx, Roberto is a new Hell's Kitchen restaurant founded by Roberto Passon. He's the guy... More >>

  • A Tale of Two Tubs

    While propelling south on Flatbush Avenue past hair salons, roti parlors, and colorful fruit stands spilling breadfruit and bananas onto the... More >>

  • Marc-Down

    With his cleft chin, square jaw, and thatch of dark hair, the waiter might have been Ben Affleck's brother, as he leaned over our table, asking... More >>

  • Amazin' Meze

    Among the hulking warehouses and sunken railroad tracks of northern Dyker Heights, near a mental health facility emblazoned "Serenity... More >>

  • Snacker's Paradise

    Who'd have thought a pile of grayish ground pork could taste so good? Yet that seemingly unpalatable substance is the heart of yum nam sod... More >>

  • Wrights and Wrongs

    Though Lodge qualifies as a theme restaurant, I'm not quite sure what the theme is. The business card pictures a red Adirondack lodge, while the... More >>

  • Soap Ogling

    Kennedy Boulevard zigzags south of Journal Square through a zone of elegant brick apartment buildings, wood-frame houses with rambling porches, a... More >>

  • Ride 'Em Cowboy!

    In day eight of The Decameron, Giovanni Boccaccio describes a town called Bengodi ("enjoyment"). Perched beside a mountain of grated Parmesan,... More >>

  • Nip and Squirt

    A few years back, New Yorkers often returned from Chinatown with chins glistening and grease splattered on their shirts. They'd fallen in love... More >>

  • Capture the Flag

    With its low-rise mix of used-car lots, small manufacturers, storefront churches, and especially Ecuadorian, Colombian, Dominican, and Mexican... More >>

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