Counter Culture

  • Date Spot

    Decades ago, every New Yorker had his or her own Greenwich Village hideaway, a secret place on a hard-to-find street where the red sauce flowed... More >>

  • Magnificent Morsels

    For the past few years, New York has been in a dim sum slump. A decade ago, Chinatown palaces like Triple Eight and Golden Unicorn were churning... More >>

  • Leapin' Lepinja!

    Once upon a time, there was a wee hamburger stand hidden beneath the Forest Avenue M station in Ridgewood, Queens. Looking like a giant in a... More >>

  • 'Cue Cue

    The pompous and sanctimonious name kept me out of R.U.B. (Righteous Urban Barbecue) for weeks. So, too, was I skeptical of the wave of hype that... More >>

  • Savoring Screw Pine

    "That looks like Tompkins Square after it rains," quipped Mary, who has an apartment overlooking the park and should know. Indeed, Skyway's fried... More >>

  • Rearing Trout

    The old frame house sits a stone's throw from Sheepshead Bay, its picture window dominated by a lightbulb-covered sign that spasmodically blinks... More >>

  • Undersea Toon

    You can count the really serious sushi bars south of 14th Street on the fingers of one hand, and none can quite match the magnificence of... More >>

  • Noodle Wizardry

    Thwap! Thwap! Thwap! The dude in the window slaps the yellowish rope of noodle dough mercilessly on the stainless-steel counter. A line of... More >>

  • Happy Days

    In an otherwise dull-looking neighborhood in southern Milwaukee, Leon's explodes with neon. There's an American flag, a spotted dog running away... More >>

  • Green Day

    A pregnant friend's husband is a strict vegetarian. When I take them out to eat I feel bad watching Peter grimace as Gina knocks back iron-rich... More >>

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