Counter Culture

  • Stinky Herb

    One distinguishing feature of Greek Cypriot cooking is the use of cilantro. Native to the Mediterranean area, this odiferous botanical was once a... More >>

  • Rocco vs. Rocco

    When you find yourself in Brooklyn at the corner of Fort Hamilton Avenue and 65th Street, you're not in the Land of Lobster but in the Kingdom of... More >>

  • Nudies

    Nothing's more food-porny than gnudi ("nudies"). Also known as ravioli malfatti ("badly made ravioli"), these naked lumps of cheesy filling... More >>

  • Oh Shito!

    Real estate makes strange bedfellows. I rediscovered this quintessential New York fact one Friday afternoon when I decamped the No. 2 train at... More >>

  • Eyeball to Eyeball

    In my capacity as scout for the Organ Meat Society, I received an urgent e-mail from Peter and Chin-a. They'd discovered a restaurant in Flushing... More >>

  • Shaggy-Dog Story

    No one is more closely associated with California cuisine—at least the New York version of it—than Jonathan Waxman. Arguably one of the... More >>

  • Gullah Gullah Island

    Pinkie-size shrimp caught in South Carolina waters—where tides wash around dozens of barrier islands that are mainly marsh, palmetto, and... More >>

  • Forsaken

    It's common enough to see friends forsake their Manhattan digs, only to reappear in Brooklyn or Queens—but a restaurant? But that was the... More >>

  • Ho's or Hamburgers?

    No address better symbolizes the current era of culinary gentrification than 455 Hudson Street. Not long ago, it was a Chinese carry-out named... More >>

  • Metalheads

    The glass refrigerator case glows mad bright in the front room, lit by a mercury-vapor bulb that makes the lined-up soft drinks phosphoresce,... More >>

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