Counter Culture

  • Goo

    The setting is a tent. Robed and bearded men sit in a circle around a cast-iron pot as flames lick the sides. Grasping gobbets of charred... More >>

  • Sugar Shock

    "I don't think these stir fries are really stir-fried," observed my companion. "I think they were assembled from pre-cooked ingredients just... More >>

  • Shooting Up

    Once you've tasted the searing, numbing, lemony-metallic flavor of Sichuan peppercorns, you'll never forget them. As one commentator wryly... More >>

  • Remember the Spartans

    You come upon it unexpectedly as you near the point where Eighth Avenue dead-ends into the Gowanus Expressway, a rococo cream-colored cottage... More >>

  • Endangered Bird

    The cooking technique was brought to America by enslaved persons from coastal West Africa. Applied to chicken, it became the cornerstone of the... More >>

  • Seize the Egg

    Jack and Grace Lamb are the acknowledged king and queen of micro-dining. While other restaurateurs dream of birthing behemoth restaurants of two... More >>

  • Counting Sheep

    Not since Fat Baby Lamb—a northern Chinese restaurant in Flushing—have I encountered a place as obsessed with the flesh of young sheep.... More >>

  • Frieze and Furze

    The artichoke ($11) is steamed an intriguing shade of green, one that will never appear in fashion forecasts. The innermost leaves and furzy... More >>

  • Egg Incorporated

    We've spilled lots of ink in these pages about new Sumatran restaurants like Minang Asli and Upi Jaya that have changed our way of thinking about... More >>

  • Diggin' Ditch

    Manhattan's latest seafood shack, Ditch Plains, sails in the wake of Pearl Oyster Bar, Mary's Fish Camp, and their numerous imitators—some... More >>

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