Chef Jason Neroni's latest adventure is a staid Village bistro with wonderful views of Sixth Avenue and interesting art on the walls (plus a newly opened sidewalk seating area). Despite the eclectic menu, his interest in pork and Spanish food prevails. Baked feta is the best bar snack; striped bass the best fish (sided with oddball items like seckle pear, celeriac, and trumpet mushrooms); squid-ink agnolotti the best pasta; and pork confit with moustarda the best meat main (no surprise here). For dating couples, the roast chicken for two, deposited on a lively bread salad the way they do it in San Francisco at Zuni Café, is highly recommended.
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Let's begin with the most scrumptious dish on the menu: a free-range chicken for two ($43)—a pullet, really, the tender young flesh marshaled in sienna-skinned fragments across an oblong heap of arugula. At the first forkful, ...