Each year we see a number of restaurateurs reaching across ethnic lines. Elegant and wildly expensive Abboccato is a project of the Greek restaurateurs who own haute midtown fish spots Molyvos and the splendid Oceana. Now they take on Italian, highlighting rarely seen regional specialties. The mixed charcuterie platter served with the fried fritter called gnoccho is exemplary, and the grilled--rather than stewed--tripe is a revelation. Our favorite dish was a sauerkraut-laced bean soup from Trieste called jota, while the biggest disappointment was an ultra-weird combo of vanilla-scented veal cheeks and wild boar in chocolate sauce.
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